|
Crochet
Stitches for Vintage Patterns
The stitches used in crochet are, chain, slip, single, double,
treble, and long treble crochet.
TO MAKE A CHAIN, form a loop on the thread, insert the hook in it, and
draw the thread in another loop through this. Continue this to form a
succession of stitches.
SLIP-STITCH is made by drawing a thread at once through any
given stitch and the loop which is on the needle.
SINGLE CROCHET (written s.c.)—Having a loop on the needle, insert the
hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. You then have two
on the hook; draw the thread through both at once.
DOUBLE CROCHET (d.c.)—Twist the thread round the hook before
inserting it in the stitch, through which you draw the thread in a loop.
Three loops being then on the needle, draw the thread through two, and
then through the one just formed and the remaining one.
TREBLE CROCHET (t.c.) and LONG TREBLE (long t.c.) are worked in the
same manner; in the former the thread is put twice, in the latter three
times, round the hook, before inserting it into the stitch.
TO JOIN LEAVES.—When one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be
joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the place
to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.
TO PASS FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.—In
working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having
finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins the
next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip the
needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This twisted chain
will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch. Should the round
not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to the part where it
commences, as it will seldom be more than a few stitches in advance.
SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the
engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers
should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares are
either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two ch.—missing
two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. A close square has
three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close squares, followed by
an open, will have so many times three d.c., and one over; and any
foundation made for a pattern to be worked in square crochet will have a
number of chains divisible by three, leaving one over.
TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.—In forming leaves and many other things, this is
very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted the
thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert it in
the work, and half-do a stitch. Instead of completing it, again twist the
thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and work a stitch
completely. Thus, for two stitches taken in the work, there is only one
head. This being successively repeated materially contracts an edge.
TO JOIN ON A THREAD.—Avoid joins in open work as much as possible. In
close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. Finish the
stitch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of inches for
both ends, which you hold in.
TO WORK WITH SEVERAL COLOURS.—Hold the threads not in use along the
edge of the work, and work them in. When the colour is to be changed,
begin the stitch with the old colour, and complete it with the new, which
continue to work with, holding the other in. If only one stitch of a
colour is to be used, you finish one stitch, and begin the next with it;
then change. Colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid work, such as
the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like.
TO WORK OVER CORD.—Hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work
round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. The stitches
must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely.
TO WORK WITH BEADS.—Beads must be first threaded on the silk, or
other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is
usually thought the wrong side of the work. This side presents a more even
appearance than the other. It follows that when bead purses are worked
from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual way—namely,
from right to left.
THE MARKS USED IN CROCHET RECEIPTS.—These are very simple when
understood. They are printers' marks—asterisks, crosses, daggers, and
sometimes one or two others. They are used to mark repetitions, and save
space. The principal thing to observe is, that in every row or round, if one
of any kind is used, a second, similar one, is sure to be found;
and that the repetition occurs between the two, however far distant apart.
Suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:—X 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4,
* 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c., X, * twice; it would, at
full length, be—2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1
ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c.,
1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. It
will be seen that one repetition often occurs within another, as in
the stitches between the asterisks. Another mode of shortening receipts
can be used only where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond;
the latter being the same as the former, worked backwards. Then the
letters b, a, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row
you reverse the instructions. b, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2
ch., miss 1, a, 1 d.c. (the centre stitch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch.,
miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch.,
7 d.c. These letters and the printers' marks are equally used in knitting.
It is easy to see how much space is gained by the use of these
abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. Probably many of
our friends are already familiar with the substance of this preliminary
lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are still ignorant
of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature of the adepts will
lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in consideration of the
benefit it will be to their less fortunate friends.
One word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. It should not be sharp
or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite free from
any angularity that can catch the silk. Cheap and common crochet-hooks are
in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel silk, wear out the
patience, and prick the finger. They should be of the best steel, highly
polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles. Those we use have been made
at our recommendation, and have the size engraved on every handle.
This saves the tiresome and uncertain reference to a gauge. These hooks
are termed "tapered, indented" crochet-hooks.
|
